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Rosemary Ferguson’s guide to Deià: tapas, secret coves and live music

BusinessRosemary Ferguson's guide to Deià: tapas, secret coves and live music


For nutritionist Rosemary Ferguson this rugged village is a slice of heaven where she can indulge her love for nature, as well as great food and late night fun. After visiting for 15 year, her and her family know the area like the back of theirs hands. Here she shares her hidden gems, wellness tips and must-taste tapas in the area.

What’s your favourite destination and why?

Deià in Mallorca, a little slice of the Serra de Tramuntana wedged between cliff and sea — it’s small and perfect for a care-free break. The food is local, seasonal and unfussy — grills, salads and amazing oils — which keeps the functional-medicine part of my head happy. Plus, Palma Airport is a two-hour hop from London door to door, so we can leave on a Friday and be at our favourite tapas place by sundown.

Most beach towns tip toward either hedonism or hermit-calm; Deià lets you slide between both without booking a taxi. I love the olive terraces, the church bells echoing off limestone, that salty-sweet smell when pine trees meet sea spray — it all presses the big red reset and rest button for me.

When were you last there?

August last year for a long weekend with my husband Jake [Chapman, the artist] and the girls. We arrived just before sunset, dropped our bags, went for a swim at Cala Deià and watched “that” sunset with a glass of rosé.

My family and I have been there for over 15 summers. In the many years we’ve been visiting my small children have become adults, and it has been great for all stages. It is the same and yet it never feels stale.

Where do you like to stay?

La Residencia, a Belmond Hotel

An Airbnb — we’ve rented the same one for years. It’s a three-bed and the view is amazing. If we are feeling flush then we go to La Residencia, a Belmond hotel, which has beautiful wooden beds, two pools and a good spa. I took Jake for his birthday one year in November. It rained the whole time, and it was still heaven!

What’s been your favourite meal?

This is a tie between wood-fired prawns at Ca’s Patró March and tapas at Xelini. Patró’s delicious prawns comes in garlicky oil. Then at Xelini, the padróns are blistered just right, there’s clams in garlic and great tortilla. Something for everyone.


Most beach towns tip toward hedonism or hermit-calm — Deià lets you slide between both

What are your top three restaurants?

Ca’s Patró March is beautiful and on theside of the cliff looking over the beach and swimmers and boats below. It’s always packed but amazing for lazy, late lunches. Getting a table is no mean feat — asking in person at the beach is your best bet. Xelini Deià does proper tapas and has a busy terrace. It’s one of are our favourites for dinner. Nama does Thai with a twist. It’s great when you want something a bit different.

Ca’s Patró March

Ca’s Patró March

What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?

I’d start the day with a run into the village and end up at the church at the top of Deià just as the sun is up. Next I’d stop for a quick cup of tea and a boiled egg at Sa Font Fresca, then walk back on the mountain trails. When we take our dogs, we go for miles. We have two sausage dogs and two Staffies, they love the morning walk, then sleep in the shade for most of the day!

Then it’s food shop time. I hate shopping for clothes, but food shopping — I am there. I love checking out local produce. All the fresh salad and fruit.

Then we’ll walk down to Cala Deià to read and swim, have lunch at Ca’s Patró March and then swim some more. Then back in the village we’ll have an Aperol. And at around 7pm we’ll drive to Sa Foradada for the sunset, which is stunning.

Dinner is often at home as I love to cook, or we go for tapas and end the day with a nightcap at Sa Fonda.

Shutterstock

What’s the one unmissable thing you recommend doing?

Watching the sun drop through the Sa Foradada arch — I would get there an hour before sundown, claim a rock perch, order an Aperol and just watch.

Is there a hidden gem you’re willing to share?

Cala Llucalcari — a pebbly postage-stamp-worthy cove. There are zero facilities though — be warned. Be sure to smear on the SPF before baking in the sun, then dip in the Med and your skin ends up baby-soft and mineral-fed. Take a picnic (and a sun shade) and stay for the day. Heaven!

Rosemary Ferguson

Dave Benett/Getty Images for Dior

Where do you go to let your hair down?

Sa Fonda’s terrace with live music. It’s a lot of fun, they have all sorts of music, it can get quite packed and sometimes there are queues. It’s a great place to see friends and go for a dance.

Who do you call for a good time?

 We have been going for a while, so now we know lots of people who are local or who go every summer, too. So they know every swim spot. But I also love it being just us — having time with Jake and the kids. As they’ve grown up and move out, these times are really special, and we have such a laugh together.

I love the local market which takes place in the car park every week for fresh fruit, vegetables and dried fruit. The Deià supermarket has an amazing deli with great olive oil, cheese and pizza.

Mirador de Sa Foradada at golden hour, but all of it really — the mountains in one direction, the horizon in the other, it is a special place.

 Some shoes that can cope with pebbly beaches. Birkenstocks work very well.

What’s a song that reminds you of the place?

There are so many vibes. I’d say Elvis tracks.

What’s your dress code for Deià?

Relaxed, a bit of a look for the evening — otherwise, denim shorts and a vest are perfect.

Have you ever had an emergency incident there?

I had a jellyfish sting once!

A building you’d like to live in?

Anything up the mountains, looking out at that view, with olive groves outside.

What’s your top wellness tip?

Get up and get out. It is so beautiful in the mountains. Go and spend time on the trails; you can walk for miles. If you want a more guided experience there are lots of local yoga teachers. We did kundalini at sunrise at La Residencia, which was pretty special.

Do you exercise while travelling ?

Yes, runs to the beach, a swim in the sea and a run back up is a solid workout, but to be honest, walking and leisurely swimming is what I do. But getting to some of the beaches with bags full of food and drinks is like a weighted climb!



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