Bara, in Peckham, is a celebration of Wales, its farmers and suppliers. The seafood specialist Câr-y-Môr makes an appearance, as does Coaltown, a coffee collective in the old mining stronghold of Ammanford. I think sandwiches tend to pair best with beer and so enter Tiny Rebel lager, the best thing to come out of Newport since Michael Sheen. A bottle with a “Swansea breakfast”, or toasted focaccia of smoked bacon, Blas y Tir leeks, cockles and laverbread, would be sheer sublimity. Nevertheless, and considering I hadn’t gone gentle into the good night the evening before, it was impossible to forgo the Caerphilly cheesesteak, a Welsh take on the Philadelphia classic and yet a thing that, curiously, hasn’t been invented until now. It’s a simple premise, adding green alliums and switching from American to Welsh cheese, but no less a genius one.