London Fashion Week: February 2024 Highlights

Celebrating its 40th anniversary, this seasons carefully curated line up featured London’s flagship labels Burberry, JW Anderson, and Simone Rocha, as well as an array of new, and emerging brands including Conner Ives, Robyn Lynch, Chet Lo and DERRICK.

Here, LDNFASHION brings you a rundown of some of the weeks biggest shows and presentations…

DAVID KOMA

This season David Koma investigates the radiation and physicality intrinsic to his work, through a study of dance.

In an imaginary exchange between the late German neo-expressionist dance pioneer Pina Bausch, and the contemporary Spanish action artist Candela Capitan, Koma’s AW24 collection deconstructs the dress codes of the on-duty, and off-duty dancer’s wardrobes through an ultra modern lens.

Balancing minimalism with maximalism in both form and colour, ballet bustiers turn into evening dresses, skirts are layered over trousers, tutus take new forms, and feathers take centre-stage.

Echoing the the grammar of dancer’s shoes, the collection features plumed satin sling-backs, soft knee-high leather boots, the David Koma signature silver-toed, thigh-high leather boots.

ROBYN LYNCH

For Ireland’s finest, Robyn Lynch, family is the greatest source of inspiration.

Whether it be digging into her father’s wardrobe, or rifling through old home video footage, the London-based designer takes each collection as an opportunity to explore personal nostalgia.

For AW24, Lynch shines a spotlight on her younger sister Adrianna – a professional Irish dancer – to produce a masterful capsule that innovates and reconstructs technical menswear for a new generation to enjoy.

Of her quest to authentically incorporate elements of the past with fresh, contemporary styles of design, Lynch explains in her show notes: “I vividly remember all these weekends spent in sports halls at competitions, seeing the glitz and the drama that happened on and off stage.”

“I loved the contrasting feeling of a rich, abstract devoré against our recycled nylons. So this tension of pragmatic versus decorative became a through line in the process.”

The boundary pushing collection, also features a special up-cycled collaboration with C.P. Company, that sees Robyn reimagine a selection of outerwear pieces from the Italian sportswear brands past collections, into a capsule of one-off designs.

MITHRIDATE

Mithridate’s ‘Vita Aeterna’ collection sees Creative Director Demon Zhang, explore themes of individual existence, and diverse forms of coexistence between humans and nature in three parts: Time, Identity and Fate.

Brought to life in a mediaeval and atmospheric setting, the brand continues to embrace the “More is More” spirit, with thick velvets, metallic coatings, bejewelled embroidery and three dimensional florals all gracing the runaway at The Crypts at Guildhall London.

And whilst the Mithridate Moth motif is threaded throughout via pattern, accessories and shape, other striking elements such as juniper, beetles, coral and bees, are cleverly integrated into the stitching of key pieces using both innovative and artisan techniques, mimicking the human body and forming a “metaphorical representation of the complex connection between the body, nature and life”.

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY

With an intense focus on the immediacy of image, insignia and iconography, Edward Crutchley’s erudite practice of pulling on “historical costume, global material culture and artisanal expertise” is at the fore for Winter 2024.

Presented at London’s Ironmongers Hall, the bold and unafraid collection features an array of broad-shouldered coats with billowing sleeves, ankle-sweeping skirts, crochet dresses and western inspired cowboy hats designed by master milliner Stephen Jones.

ANCUTA SARCA

This season, Ancuta Sarca – a recipient of the FNAA Emerging Talent Award – reimagines her distinctive design aesthetic with a “darker twist”.

Drawing inspiration from cult movies including American Psycho and Fight Club, the collection embraces deeper tones, while capturing the “unsettling ambiance” of an empty airport lounge.

In alignment with the brand’s dedication to environmental responsibility, footwear pieces are imbued with sustainable practices.

Statement knee-high boots feature dead-stock leathers and faux furs, while surplus fabrics from past seasons are transformed into ankle boots with wing details, ankle-strap kitten heels, and slouchy boots with striking airbrush effects.

Utilising teddy fleece jumpers and recycled car seat leathers, boots of various lengths are crafted, seamlessly embodying the instantly recognisable Ancuta Sarca silhouette.

CONNER IVES

Conner Ives took over the Savoy’s lavish Lancaster Ballroom to debut his AW24 collection, showcasing an array of ultra-glamorous looks inspired by high society.

Whilst in the past, Ives previous work has paid homage to women across pop culture, this season the New York born designer choses to focus on the real-life women who have helped shape his life, and career thus far.

“Since the beginning of time, my designs have been platformed, guided and influenced by my swans,” Conner writes in his show notes. “And so this season’s cast is made up of the women, socialites, friends and muses who have kept me in a state of awe.”

“Tish Weinstock, Ella Richards and etc. are muses; constant inspiration and moral support. Chloe Nardin and Josie Sidhu were my swans while I was studying at school. Being classmates and fellow fans of fashion, these relationships eclipse just the concept of me making clothes for my friends. Each woman has shaped me into the persona I am today in more ways than I can recall.”

DERRICK

London menswear label DERRICK, founded by Central Saint Martins graduate Luke Derrick, unveiled its debut collection ‘Nightwalking’ at The Old Selfridges Hotel as part of this seasons NEWGEN collective.

Examining the 12 minute walk the young designer made every night returning home late from his studio in Bethnal Green to his flat in Spitafields, East London, the sophisticated 18-piece capsule combines luxury, practicality and innovative design.

“This collection is an examination of the allure of restless night crawling, of overcoats worn braced against cold city wind, and of juxtaposed cultures and characters found on either end of Bethnal Green road,” Derrick says in his show notes.

With a strong focus on craftsmanship and creating classic silhouettes, Derrick produces a compelling capsule that is sure to play an important role in helping to reshape the future of men’s fashion.

LABRUM LONDON

‘Designed By An Immigrant: Journey of Colours’ sees LABRUM London celebrate the diverse and vibrant cultures brought by immigrants when they traverse continents.

Through the capsule, Creative Director, Foday Dumbuya, pays tribute to the inspiring stories of immigrant artists who overcame adversity and made significant contributions to the art and fashion world.

Wrapping techniques appear heavily throughout the collection, fabric draping around the body and similar dressing styles are also prominent. These techniques are used for practicality and resilience as well as celebration of a historical practise of “adornment and art form”.

Other designs incorporate a range of global textile techniques; digital embroidery patchwork, quilting, woven textiles and screen-printing. All these crafts are used to highlight the diverse colour palette of AW24.

Silhouettes can be described as ‘Cultural Confluence’, embracing the diversity of cuts, shapes, styles and cross pollination of “cultural identities in the modern world today”.

MARK FAST

For Autumn / Winter ’24 Mark Fast invites his tribe to step into the stylish realm of a ‘Galaxy Beyond’ – where fashion merges with “urban city architecture, space-inspired charm, gothic realm, and luxurious comfort” to create clothing design to make an impact on the streets.

The futuristic collection, with its intriguing added extra-terrestrial edge, is a fusion of both Mark’s knit mastery, and the creative legacy of Joe Colombo, with the infamous 1960s architects influence, and transformative ethos, tastefully interwoven throughout specific pieces featured in the capsule.

Fast skilfully incorporates his artistry into the fabric of this fashion narrative, creating cosy knit designs revealing subtle details beneath oversized coats, and attire crafted from weather-resistant materials, transforming the traditional runway into a dynamic canvas of “diverse interstellar expressions”.

SABIRAH

Founded by Stylist and Creative Director Deborah Latouche, SABIRAH is a conscious, demi-couture, modest-wear brand that believes in the “elevation of all womxn regardless of size, race or religion”.

SABIRAH’s Collection 1.7 draws inspiration from the legendary Dominique Devereux of the iconic hit 80’s TV show Dynasty. Celebrated as a powerful, glamorous and independent businesswoman, the character (played by actress Diahann Carroll) was the first ever person of colour to appear in the series.

The colour palette for this season is refined; peaches and creams are juxtaposed with hues of tobacco, silver and gold. Whilst antique jewels add accents to the impeccably cut silhouettes, amplifying “Devereux-esque strength” through power dressing.

Powdery pink-feathered hats and delicate lace eyepieces by Piers Atkinson complete the vintage glamour, ensuring the models elude “extravagance and panache”.

Staying true to the brands considered design mantra, the collection uses luxury end-of-life fabrics sourced in Italy. The pieces are then tailored and made in London giving an exclusive service to each client.

SAUL NASH

In a blaze of bright lights, and blistering dance beats, North East London creative SAUL NASH showcased ‘Dresscodes’ – his AW24 collection inspired by the ferocious energy, and timely traditions adopted by some of the capitals most renowned garage clubs.

In a nod to such establishments strict dress codes – i.e. no hoodies, no hats, no trainers – Nash takes this as a jumping off point, evolving his movement-based cutting beyond the tracksuit, yet still pumping the adrenaline of London nightlife.

Made up of a slick selection of pieces, guaranteed to gain you both entry into the clubs, as well as style points on the streets, the collection also features a selection of uber cool bags, made in collaboration with London-based accessories and apparel brand, ARCS.