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As the phenomenon of the “influencer” grows, clashes are escalating between the TikTok set and restaurant staff who are desperately trying to stop them ruining the experience of bona fide guests. At this time of severe challenges for restaurants generally, the dilemma is how best to reach new clients without alienating existing ones. Let me step back in time and examine how we reached this tipping point.
Lucian Freud possessed an uncanny and impressive aim with a breadstick. He used them as a weapon against perpetrators of flash photography in my restaurants over the years and perfected his skill at The Wolseley, when I would see him hit his offending target at several yards distance. His fear was not solely the invasion of his privacy but also the blinding effect of the flash itself. His retribution was quickly followed by my staff explaining the “no flash” rule to the offending guest. I once asked Andy Warhol to cease taking photos at Le Caprice, explaining that the rule was to protect celebrities like him. It was heartbreaking not to have the prospect of treasuring those photos in the future but I had to be consistent and he understood.
That said, we of course recognised that guests were often celebrating a special occasion. I would ask the staff not to rush too quickly to prohibit, so that keepsake photos could be taken briefly, without prolonging the intrusion on others.
The Park restaurant
Fenton Whelan/Grant Frazer
A fashion shoot, not a meal out
I was actually happy when the smartphone arrived because the quality of the camera allowed memories be recorded without affecting others — although we remained vigilant for breaches of policy. It was a halcyon period. Many of the photos were influencing others through the new social media channels but it was some 10 years ago that the notion of an “influencer” emerged. I am afraid it quickly became viral and we witnessed an influenza-like outbreak of them.
I think we all wish to influence, or be influenced, in one way or another — it is largely the human condition — but sadly it is so often the case that when anything is monetised, the ugly aspects will soon be revealed.
My most recent restaurant, The Park, opened in the summer of 2024 in Bayswater and it has developed a very dedicated following from local regulars and further afield. I think it surprised many with its New York/Italian menu and mid-century interiors and art. Recognition began to increase but then we started to notice a proliferation of guests coming in with what appeared to be the sole purpose of taking and posting fashion photographs, using the restaurant as a background. This might seem innocuous and even flattering in itself — but not when it starts to affect other customers and indeed cross the line on privacy.
It seems this was all engendered by our bathrooms trending on TikTok, a platform we don’t inhabit. We started to find customers arriving with suitcases and tripods then ordering very little, often leaving the table as the food arrived and being absent for long periods. We would often be cajoling women out of the loos to eat their meal and when they eventually returned to the table they would complain that the food was cold and refuse to pay for it.
Lauren Gurvich King with Jeremy King
Max Cisotti/Dave Benett/Getty Images
Stairway to influencer hell
The staircase was a particularly popular location and sometimes there would be two groups jockeying for the best position to drape themselves at the same time. When I remonstrated with one particularly entitled woman she became very aggressive, told me that she could do whatever she wanted because it was a public place and that I should be grateful for her shooting footage as most people pay her to promote their restaurant and, anyway, there weren’t any signs up prohibiting her, nor any other restrictions. No, but it’s just common decency and sense.
Tipped off by a customer we once found 10 women — influencers with entourage — blocking access to the loos, while using them as changing rooms with their own sound system. That same evening another influencer couple were outraged when they arrived with a suitcase and tripod and were turned away.
Enough was enough. Those signs went up; the website amended; security employed; and it was made clear that this type of filming was unacceptable. Of course, the perpetrators wanted retribution. In the course of one weekend we had 12 damning one-star reviews from thwarted influencers, often accompanied by staff photos and a plethora of false accusations. These were taken down by Google — but damaging enough and where does that leave us?
I don’t want to go down the route of insisting that guests have stickers placed on their camera lens as at other places, or even banning phones all together, or indeed banning influencers. But I will insist that rules are adhered to and the restaurant, staff and customers fully respected.
The nadir for me was when at the excellent Grill Royal in Berlin I observed an “influencer” arrive with a bright light on her headband, like a miner, and the restaurant didn’t ask her to turn it off for fear of losing her “influence”. Secretly I bemoan that Lucian is no longer on point duty.
Jeremy King is a restaurateur
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