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Commissioned by the Count Eusebi Guëll, one of his lifelong patrons, it was initially designed as a housing complex, that eventually (due to budget constraints) became a park, populated by some of Gaudí’s most eye-catching work: a massive mosaic lizard, the melting ice-cream roof of the warden’s house and the austere Pont de Baix which offers gorgeous views over the city; on the day I visited, the sky was clear and blue, and the whole city stretched out before me, bordered by the glistening Mediterranean.
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